Thursday, March 13, 2014

Bittersweet

“One plate of garlic bread, one medium Veggie Delight pizza, and a bottle of Coke”

“Apple pie with icecream!” one of the kids shouted. “Mummy please order the apple pie, please!”

 “Alright alright! One of aunty’s apple pies as well. Yes, that’ll be all, thanks”

In the quaint little town of Rajpurgaon, Uncle’s Pizza was a legend of sorts. It was set up in the early 90s by an enterprising gift shop owner, Chhoturam, and had been serving the city’s populace for close to 20 years now. The idea first occurred to him over dinner with a few friends with whom he had recently been on a trip to Delhi, and that was the first time the small-town man had ever tried Pizza.

“This thing is good, and shouldn’t take much to prepare too” he came back and told his wife. Mrs.Leela Chhoturam asked her cousin in Mumbai to send across pizza buns, and bought cheese from the one shop in the whole of Rajpurgaon that stocked the small Amul cubes. Ketchup was used instead of the usual sauce for the base, and over 6-7 attempts, she started making a decent pizza. Everyone at home loved it, and when she shared with the neighbours, they were delighted as well. Chhoturam, who had been contemplating opening another gift stop in the plot he had next to the lake, shifted his focus on opening a small restaurant instead.

“We’ve been making people happy with gifts, let’s try it with food now” he thought

Response wasn’t very encouraging at the start, but that was just how Chhoturam had anticipated. In a town where Daal-Roti and Samosa were staples, why would someone want to pay considerably higher for a bread with some vegetables on it? But slowly the curiosity factor and the changing generational preferences worked in Chhoturam’s favour, as did the brilliant location next to the lake where people came to relax in the evening. Word spread about the new eatery and it’s “phoren” offerings, and crowd started trickling in. Some other small eateries also set up shop adjacent to the lake, and it began evolving into a tourist location.

Over the years, Uncle’s pizza established a strong presence in the hearts of the city’s populace. Many families were regulars on Sundays, the who’s-who of the town drew up their Mercedes’ to have a taste occasionally, the place was used frequently for birthdays and celebrations, and there was hardly a visitor to the town who wasn’t advised to pay it a visit for “the best pijja in India”. Chhoturam, who was referred to as uncle, made it a point to treat his customers as family, and checked on each and every table if they were satisfied. The gift shop was managed by one of his sons now, and though there was clearly an opportunity to open another restaurant, he was against the idea for fear of not being able to maintain the USP.

On one of the mornings when there were a few regulars having coffee and Chhoturam was sipping tea next to the billing counter, he noticed a half-page ad in the newspaper announcing the opening of Robobig café in the lake area next week. Robobig, an international café chain that started in the USA, served continental cuisine; pastas, pizzas, paninis and the like. It had been doing brisk business in most of the Indian metros since it entered in 2005, and was now looking to grow by riding on the ambitions of the tier-2 towns. Six ads followed the first, one each day upto the inauguration of the café done by a local celebrity, and the last one even announced a free mini pizza to anyone who brought along a copy of the ad on the first day. Within a couple of months of its opening, Robobig was already a rage. It was the newest destination in town, and people went there to be considered in touch with times. The plasticky cutlery and the dismal self-service facility were overlooked because of the cool quotient, and everyone in town was talking about whether they had tried the huge variety of options on the menu.

Robobig’s flagship lake store was twice the size of Uncle’s pizza, and it obviously hurt Chhoturam’s business. With his volumes, he could not match their prices or deals, and with people moving to where their friends went, Uncle’s pizza began losing the game. Chhoturam started doing home deliveries, but then the investment in bikes didn’t seem to be yielding much result and was distracting his son from the gift shop as well. Over time, his restaurant began to be visited by only hard-core loyalists who went there for old times’ sake, but even that number seemed to be diminishing at a fast pace. Business was beginning to get from bad to worse, and the situation wasn’t at the least encouraging.

“Papa, Gupta uncle called yesterday. We need to pay the rent by next week, it’s already overdue by 3 months” Chotturam’s son mentioned on his way to the store late one evening “And a couple of tables at the restaurant have been giving way, we need to replace them.”

“Things are really falling apart, aren’t they” Chhoturam surmised.

The next day, he consulted his wife and made the decision. It was painful, the restaurant had become so intertwined with his life, but then it had also become a burden that he couldn’t afford anymore. He put out an ad in the papers that Uncle’s pizza will be shutting shop after three days, and till then he would be offering all items at a 50% discounted price. There was a brief buzz for the next three days, with people coming and trying to show their concern for the store. Regulars took photos on their favourite tables and promised to keep in touch, and on the last day, the Chhoturam family went home with mixed feelings, sad at the closure but satisfied to have touched the lives of so many around them.

The owner of the Robobig franchise in the town, Mr.Sharma, seized the opportunity and opened a couple of more stores at the other ends of the town. He also sealed a deal to open a store of Cookie-Cutter, a confectionary and desserts chain that was a sister concern of Robobig. Some weeks later, one evening when Sharma’s ten year-old daughter got back from school, she was beaming.

“How was your day, beta?”

“Great dad! Today we had a minister as a chief guest for one of the functions, and the principal introduced me as the owner of the biggest fast food chains in the city. I felt very good!”

“That’s quite nice of her”

“You know, I have an idea to make our restaurants even better!”

“Sure, go ahead and tell me” Sharma indulged her “But have some of this chocolate cake first, I’ve just got it from our store”

“Dad, all of our shops look and feel so same, everything is so standardized! When we went to the Robobig cafes or the Cookie-cutter stores in Bengaluru and Kolkata too, it was nothing different, it’s just how it is here” She took a spoonful of the cake “For example, Uncle’s pizza place was quite nice, with uncle always remembering his customers and being there to amuse us. If we add something unique to our cafes, like a memory board that they had or a special dish like aunty’s apple pie, it will be nice no?”

The cake didn’t seem all that sweet anymore.

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